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WORDS BY ANDREA ENRIGHT
For edgy European cities that never sleep, Sofia is definitely the new kid on the block. Kicking off its heels after years of communist rule, this city is ready to party like it was 1989 …
Recently delivered, rather jarringly, from a communist regime into a free-market democracy, Bulgarians are full of irreverence. And when the evening settles upon the capital of this newly initiated EU country, three different neighbourhoods begin to rattle and hum. From disco smoke and lavender lights to couch-laden lairs of cool and historic hideaways, this capital has it all.
PHOTOS BY TONY FRENCH
(Small Five Corners)
Dense with secret, sign-less destinations, back-yard beer gardens and narrow lanes, yet without a nearby monument to attract the typical tourist, the intersection of Han Krum, Neofit Rilski and Chesti Septemvri is authentic and alluring.
1/A-Part-Mental Chocolatier
This venue, once a spacious flat, has been transformed into an Ayurveda coffee-house by owner Plamen, who was inspired by the early ’90s coffee houses of New York City. Grab a sangria, some chocolate mousse or an Absinthe-spiked cup of tea from the kitchen and settle into the tunes, lighting and local art of its seven distinctive rooms. Play chess, strum the guitar, thumb through a photography book or catch a film screening with multilingual hipsters —both young and old. While mellow before 10pm, conversation volumes rise as the midnight hour arrives.
WHERE & HOW MUCH: A-Part-Mental, 68 Neofit Rilski Street, 10am-2am, no cover. HOW TO GET THERE: From the Small Five Corners, head down Neofit Rilsky. After the red Ygo sign, go through the black gate, look for Mona Lisa’s smirk, press the buzzer and step into the warmth.
2/Humbara
Those in search of a story will enjoy the legendary Humbara, which means “barn” in Bulgarian. Many claim that this space was the official headquarters of the first communist newspaper. The owner used to limit publicity by distributing keys to select patrons. Now the sign-less entry simply requires a knock. But this electricity-free, nocturnal nest of old pianos, dirt floors and live jazz is worth the challenge. Order a beer from the scowling waitress, head up to the loft, sit on a log-split bench and watch the flames ignite the evening.
WHERE & HOW MUCH: Humbara, 22 Chesti Septemvri, hours vary, no cover. HOW TO GET THERE: From the Small Five Corners, head down Chesti Septemvri Street. When you see the ‘Zion’ sign on your left, follow the path along the left side of that building towards a tiny, make-shift wooden shack.
One of Sofia’s most trafficked streets is the theatre-strewn Rakovski, which winds down from Dondukov to Patriarch Eftimi and strolls past the white glow of snow-dusted Alexander Nevski Cathedral, the sugar-coated Russian church before crossing Sofia’s pedestrianised shopping lane, Graf Ignatiev.
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from top left, punters file down into the O’Shipka Pizzeria & Club; Ministry of Sound takes over the Yalta Club enticing Bulgarian beauties to the dance floor; and the action at My Mojito bar never stops |
1/Alcohol
This is a nightclub of never-ending possibilities. Seek and be sought within the red-glow of a basement bash designed for drinking, dancing, hookah-pipes and hooking up. Alcohol hosts liquor-laced karaoke, live gigs and hip-hop or house DJs to a primarily young crowd.
WHERE & HOW MUCH: 127 Rakovski Street, 6pm-last customer, €3-€6.
HOW TO GET THERE: At Rakovski and Tsar Ovsboditel, walk down the hill past the park and then look for the Chef ’s Restaurant sign and used-book vendor. There’s no sign from the street.
2/My Mojito
For a swankier rendition of a Sofia discotheque, My Mojito has a polished sheen which patrons aim to personify. Two different entrances—one with a martini-sipping mood, the other boasting a dance-til-you-drop motto—connect in the middle. House and retro keep the beat. An unassuming atmosphere means you’ll find friendly party-goers aged from 22- to 42-years-old within its kaleidoscope-lit walls.
WHERE & HOW MUCH: My Mojito, 12 Ivan Vazov Street, 9pm-5am, €3-€6. HOW TO GET THERE: Left down Ivan Vazov Street, away from the cathedral.
3/Luciano’s Beer Hall
While Sofiaites are down with dancing ’til dawn, they also appreciate their golden beverages. Yet another destination invisible from the street, this venue is owned by former sport minister Vasil Ivanov. As you enter, the smell of brew, grilled meat and post-match football jerseys let you know what you’re in for. WHERE & HOW MUCH: Luciano’s Beer Hall, 9 Slaveikov Square, till 11pm, no cover. HOW TO GET THERE: From Graf Ignatiev and Rakovski, walk along the tram tracks and take a right at the lit passageway.
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In most Sofia nightclubs, you’ll be greeted by four or five beefy guys in black. A full-body pat down (for guys) or a purse pawing (for girls) is not uncommon. Don’t be alarmed—these doormen are only there to toss the last bits of mafia-linked crime from their turf. These same guys determine if you’re dolled up to the dress code. Written rules don’t exist, but here’s the basics: Women: avoid jeans or shorts. Men: make an effort. |
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Sofia operates buses, trams and trolleys until 1am and rides are ¤40, with the same ticket valid on all three. But the city centre is small and walking is often much faster than waiting. In addition, taxis are cheap and easy to find. Look for ‘OK’ company and make sure they use the meter. After 10pm, it’s still only ¤35/km. Most don’t speak English, so be prepared to pronounce your address correctly. |
On the eastern edge of Sofia’s city centre is yet another miniature district, which dazzles amid a serene façade of stroller-rolling parks and diplomat residences.
 1/Yalta Club
While most of Sofia’s Soviet era architecture is gray and uninviting, Yalta Club, established in 1959, has kept up with the times. Their glamorous glass club hosts house and techno DJ celebrities, attracting a young crowd who appreciate a well-designed sound system. Recently renovated, the black room, white room, multiple stages and disco-ball beams make it feel like a private party on a different planet. No written rules, but dressing up is pretty much required.
WHERE & HOW MUCH: Yalta Club, 20 Tsar Ovsboditel Boulevard, 8am-6am, €7-€10.
HOW TO GET THERE: Intersection of Tsar Ovsboditel Blvd and Vasil Levski Blvd. Look out for wall-to-wall windows and a stilt-supported Johnny Walker sign.
2/O’Shipka Pizzeria & Club
 Cleverly disguised as a red-and-yellow-painted pizzeria at ground level, down the back stairs is a dark, underground, candle-lit cavern where tattoo-happy, twenty-somethings converge. This casual bar surrounds patrons with rock walls, castle-like tables and clusters of corner cushions.
WHERE & HOW MUCH: 11 Shipka Street, 24-hour, €2-€3.
HOW TO GET THERE: From Vasil Levski Blvd, head down O’Shipka Street, look for the big red sign on your left. Once inside, head down the back stairs.
EATING LATE: Just next door to O’Shipka, The Witches provides late-night party relief with moon-beam murals, a quiet crowd and cheap Bulgarian fare. Krivoto, a 24-hour pizzeria, is a low-lit, high-quality Sofia standard. Just around the corner from the grand outdoor staircase and entrance of Sofia University where two boulevards—Tsar Ovsboditel Blvd and Vasil Levski—meet.
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Malka Petta Kushetta