Serre Chevalier, France

WORDS BY FELIX MILNS

With its range of exceptionally fine pistes and hearty Provençal nightlife Serre Chevalier is one of France’s finest unspoilt ski resorts

SERRE CHEVALIER IS PROBABLY THE BIGGEST RESORT YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF. Just to the south of the 2068m Col du Lautaret pass, which separates the Northern and Southern Alps, it has stayed resolutely French and is a far cry from its northern neighbours. This is no traditional resort, it is actually a series of 13 Provençal-style villages spread along the valley—the main ones are Villeneuve, Chantemerle and Le Monêtier—plus the mediaeval fortified town of Briançon. Think provincial family-run restaurants and low-key friendly hospitality. Over the last four years the Compagnie des Alpes has pumped some €40m into the lift infrastructure, piste modelling and snowmaking and this sleepy French giant is really starting to wake up to an international clientele.

1/SKI

With 250km of pistes it is a big, varied north-east facing mountain liberally spread across one side of the valley. Most of the skiing is in the larch pines, which lose their leaves in winter and stretch to over 2000m in altitude, meaning it’s a fabulously pretty ski area, particularly with the huge powder bowls above the tree line. The Pic de l’Yret is in the highest peak, a very respectable 2830m, and the off-piste Tabuc valley is one of the most picturesque and peaceful descents in the mountains. Experts are well served with testing top-to-toe tree-lined black runs. Much of the recent infrastructure work has been to improve the connections for intermediates who can now happily zip around the entire area, the vauban red run down to Briançon is a particular favourite. What is great for families is that the two main nursery areas, Grand Alpe and Fréjus are snow-sure at over 2000m and right in the heart of the ski area.

2/EAT

The Provençal feel stretches to the food, which is not so much about mountain hams and cheeses as red peppers bursting with flavour, magret du canard and lamb falling off the bone. The villages comprise more family-run restaurants than wild après-ski bars and most restaurants have a great value menu du jour. Two places are particularly tempting; La Marotte (+33 492 24 77 23) is a tiny but hugely atmospheric one-up, one-down converted cottage that serves a fabulous set menu at very reasonable prices. La Vielle Ferme (Tel. +33 492 24 76 440) serves tender rotisserie by open log fires, low ceilings and even lower candlelight. For a taste of superb local mountain specialities, including raclette, fondue and a sizzling pierre chaude check out Le Refuge (pictured above; Tel. +33 492 24 78 08).

3/MEET

This is no St Anton, and is more about chilled French bars than booming Alpenpop. In Briançon, the Auberge Mont Prorel has live music post-skiing and the Rif Blanc (pictured above) in Le Monetier is a young hang-out and good prelude to the tiny Moroccan-style Que Tal, which spins tunes till 5am. In Villeneuve, you should start at the Grotte and finish up at the very electro-French Loco Loco club. In Chantemerle the in-bar this winter is likely to be the Triptyque though the Taverne de la Biere can also be trusted to deliver a good night.

24 HOURS IN… Valencia

The bright Mediterranean sun should make light work of a trip to Valencia, the vivacious Spanish city that never sleeps…

WORDS BY OWAIN THOMAS

MORNING

On a crisp new year’s morning why not indulge in that well-known Spanish shopping tradition: las rebajas (sales). Take advantage of these biannual sales (and a favourable credit rating) in the smart shops condensed between the city’s main commercial artery, Calle Colón, and Gran Vía Marqués Turia. While you’re in the vicinity, don’t miss the chance to catch a light breakfast in the beautifully refurbished Mercado de Colón. This magnificent structure now covers a number of smart, modern cafés within its courtyard.

For a more counter-culture selection of clothing, music and retro lifestyle boutiques (and some warmer cafés) head to the labyrinthine Barrio del Carmen. It might be a challenge to navigate the tight winding streets at first, but you’ll be rewarded once you’ve rifled through the miscellaneous gems at Studio Vintage (8 Calle Purisima, Tel. +34 96 392 4715) or the carefully selected threads at women’s boutique Monki (11 Calle Calatrava, Tel. +34 96 392 4516).

MIDDAY

If it’s just plain culture you’re after, carry on searching the streets of Barrio del Carmen until you find the Museo de Bellas Artes (9 Calle San Pio, Tel. +34 96 387 0300). Stroll around the lush gardens before taking in the works of some of Spain’s finest painters—Velázquez, Goya, El Greco and Pinazo—who all share the walls.

At the northwest edge of the city’s historic centre, things get a little bit more up-to-date at the imposing IVAM (118 Calle Guillem de Castro, Tel. +34 96 386 90 62), Valencia’s premier centre for modern arts. Its collection of cavernous exhibition halls, spread out over three floors, provide an oversized dose of cutting-edge conceptual art and design to rival some of the biggest galleries in Europe. It’s also free on Sundays.

AFTERNOON

The Jardines del Turia, on the other hand, are a perennially priceless attraction that stretch almost 10km through the heart of the centre. Cultivated in the dried-out river bed of the once flood-prone River Turia, this now verdant stream of manicured gardens flows south towards the port, incorporating sports fields, cycle paths, modernist architecture and chilled cafés in its wake.

Don’t break stride until you’ve reached Santiago Calatrava’s monumental Ciudad de las Artes y de las Ciencias. You can then spend a lunchtime discussing its voluptuous curves and forgetting about your own.

There are good restaurants dotted all over the city, but if you’re short of time focus on the areas where they condense. The old town, for instance, is home to the most compact and varied selection of eateries, from contemporary noodle bars to spit-and-sawdust tapas joints. The finest of the latter La Boatella (34 Plaza del Mercado, Tel. +34 96 391 1314) sits opposite the gigantic food temple Mercado Central.

EARLY EVENING

The Valencianos are notoriously nocturnal creatures, so don’t be surprised if restaurants stay empty until around 9pm and bars even later. Try to follow a similar rhythm or you’ll be in bed by midnight without seeing a soul. For a bit of grown-up café culture, and some very smart restaurants, head southeast to L’Eixample. The tree-lined streets of this well-heeled district—in particular, the area just north of the Avenue del Reina de Valencia, around Calles Ciscar and Salamanca—buzz with pavement cafés and modernist eateries. Stylish Mondrian (49 Calle Ciscar, Tel. +34 96 333 5059) is one of a number of cool modernist establishments that set the tone.

For sustenance in Barrio del Carmen, head for Calle de Roteros near the Torres de Serrano. Here you’ll find a selection of lively bars and colourful bistros like Mattilda (No 21, Tel. +34 96 392 31 68) frying up juicy Argentinean steaks and Orient Xpress (No 12) serving up Asian fusion cuisine on shared wooden benches.

EVENING

If you’re not ready for bed, you’re ready to go out. For quality live music and better-than-average DJs, head to Mirror (200 Calle San Vincent) with a stage that was recently trampled by melancholic rock band Editors. Wah Wah (52 Calle Campoamor), a taxi ride from the centre, also welcomes a decent selection of acts regularly attracting the local student cognoscenti. And The Mill Club (Calle del Pare Porta), one of the newest arrivals near the city’s port, is not all that far away if you fancy three gigantic rooms of live music and DJs—or if you don’t mind starting at one in the morning.