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Text by Felix Milns
The resort in a nutshell, the après ski, plus the hits and the
misses! easyJet now covers most of Europe’s best ski destinations.
We could easily devote the entire magazine to the countless resorts in
close proximity to places like Geneva, Zurich, Lyon, Munich and Milan.
But here’s the lowdown on just a few...
Straddling the French/Swiss border, the Portes du Soleil is comparable
only with the Trois Vallées in terms of size of ski area, though
the character of the slopes is very different. Generally lower and more
spread out, there are some wonderful circuits for skiers who like to travel
on their skis. Avoriaz has the most reliable snow cover, as most of its
slopes are north-facing. Its other advantage is that most of the challenging
terrain in the area is found here. The resort is convenient for beginners
and a good base for intermediates. That said, some of the lower altitude
villages have more character.
APRÈS-SKI
The purpose-built centre of Avoriaz has a lively nightlife and the party
usually starts from the moment the lifts close. Live music can be found
at the Choucas and The Place and the Fantastique goes some way to live
up to its name. The nightclub of choice is called Midnight Express. The
resort restaurants are also good, but it is worth booking in advance.
Try The Bistro for good value for money. Altitude: 975m-2,350m Total lifts:
206 Total km slopes: 650 Snowboard parks: 9 (2 in Avoriaz) Transfer time:
2 hours
HITS • Avoriaz is a good gateway into the extensive ski area
• slopeside accommodation • car free village • best
snow on the circuit
MISSES • much of the Portes du Soleil is low altitude •
gets very busy at weekends
Squatting at the foot of Mont Blanc, Chamonix is a resort apart from its
contemporaries. Attracting the most fearless extreme skiers and boarders,
there is still plenty to sate the appetite of the intermediate in the
most imperious of mountain surroundings. Chamonix is split into six main
ski areas, but topping the skiing charts are the off-piste trails down
from the Vallée Blanche (a guide is essential) and the runs from
Grands Montets in Argentière. The combined area of Le Brévent
and La Flégère provides excellent terrain for intermediate
and advanced skiers with the best slopes for beginners found up the valley
at Le Tour. The lower lifts can get busy and, though there is a free bus,
a car is recommended as the skiing areas are quite disjointed.
APRÈS-SKI
Those who ski hard and party hard will love Chamonix. Bars to savour are
Wild Wallabies, the Bumble Bee, and Argentiere’s The Office, while
those of a truly nocturnal nature carry on at “Blue Night”.
Other activities include helicopter rides, paragliding, ice-driving, snow
biking, skating, curling, ski-jumping, snowshoeing, plus tennis, squash
and swimming. Altitude: 1,035m-3,842m Total lifts: 49 Total km slopes:
152km Snowboard parks: 3 Transfer time: 1.5 hours
HITS • great off-piste and challenging runs • stunning
views • vibrant town, shopping and nightlife • short airport
transfer
MISSES • unpredictable weather • fragmented ski areas
• not great for beginners or mixed ability groups
Once strictly the domain of French skiers, the proximity to Geneva and
the charming nature of the resort have thrust La Clusaz onto the international
stage. Five interconnected ski areas make this an intermediate’s
paradise in the right snow conditions. One drawback, however, is that
much of the ski area is quite low so snow cover can sometimes be thin,
though most of the runs are west and north-west facing and hold their
snow quite well. Advanced skiers are slightly limited on the piste but
there is a wealth of excellent off-piste that is rarely skied out. The
best terrain is on the Combe de Bellachat mountain at La Balme. Progressing
beginners can also get a real sense of achievement by touring the area
on a network of gentle greens.
APRÈS-SKI
Built around a large old church by a fast flowing stream, the quintessentially
French nature of La Clusaz is only enhanced by the weekly market, tempting
shops and typically French bars. The resort is getting livelier all the
time, with live music in Club 18 and the Caves du Paccaly. Eating out
is also a pleasure here and the St Joseph restaurant at the Alp Hotel
is widely regarded as the best in town. Altitude: 1,100m-2,500m Total
lifts: 55 Total km slopes: 132 Snowboard parks: 2 Transfer time: 1.5 hours
HITS • charming French mountain village • expansive
network of connected slopes • scenic views and setting • excellent
mountain restaurants
MISSES • low altitude • limited snowmaking facilities
• crowded at weekends
One of the most popular of the Italian resorts, Courmayeur seduces her
visitors to the extent that once bitten you will probably be hooked. Despite
being a relatively small area and therefore not ideal for intermediate
cruisers or advanced piste skiers, there is a some great off-piste to
explore and it is one of the best European bases for heli-skiing. The
best of these is probably the 20km run from the Ruitor glacier into France.
Now the Mont Blanc tunnel has reopened a day trip to Chamonix is both
easy and recommended. Many of the mountain huts serve delicious fresh
pasta and pizza and have some of the best views in the Alps.
APRÈS-SKI
The scenery and charm of the village only add to its appeal and the resort
has a boisterous nightlife. Italian in character, many of the bars are
very stylish and attract the chic set from Milan and Turin. The armchairs
in the Roma are particularly comfortable after a long day but if it is
dancing you are after, call in at Poppys. There is also a great choice
of restaurants. Altitude: 1,210m-2,755m Total lifts: 23 Total km slopes:
100 Snowboard parks: 0 Transfer time: 1.5 hours
HITS • unbeatable views of Mont Blanc • charming Italian
village • excellent mountain restaurants • good snow record
MISSES • not recommended for beginners • crowded at
weekends • long walk between village and cable car
Dating back to the 12th century when a Benedictine monastery was built
here, Engelberg is one of Switzerland’s oldest mountain retreats.
A very picturesque “chocolate box” Alpine village has grown
up around the cloisters that still dominate the resort today. Above the
town stands the Titlis mountain, which is accessed by the world’s
first panoramic cable car which rotates 360 degrees on its way to the
top. The slopes hold their snow well as they are largely north-facing
and the skiing and boarding is best suited to intermediates though there
is a renowned 1,000m stretch of off-piste from the shoulder of Titlis.
Children’s facilities are excellent, making it a great resort for
families. Apart from the skiing there is a large toboggan run and a “Wet’n’Wild”
snow amusement park where kids and parents can slide around on rubber
tubes...
APRÈS-SKI
The traffic-free resort is definitely on the quiet side so don’t
come here expecting rowdy nightlife. The hospitality is excellent and,
despite the fact that it is largely a Swiss resort, English visitors are
made to feel very welcome. There is also an indoor ice rink, casino and
swimming and sauna complex, but the real benefit for non-skiers is the
resort’s proximity to Lucerne (one hour) and other day trip destinations.
Altitude: 810m-2,845m Total lifts: 54 Total km slopes: 320 Snowboard parks:
3 Transfer time: 2 hours
HITS • extensive slopes and long runs • good snowboarding
facilities • excellent lift access off-piste • good mountain
restaurants
MISSES • disparate ski areas • unattractive resort
• aging lift infrastructure
The resort stretches out along the valley floor and there are six separate
ski areas, meaning that you can ski a different one each day of your holiday.
There are drawbacks to this lack of connectivity, but it does mean that
the slopes slightly further from the resort are often less crowded and
worth visiting. There is a great deal of testing terrain for experts and
intermediates, as well as a plentiful supply of easy runs for progressing
beginners. Intermediates are best spoilt by the distinctive long pistes
of the Parsenn area, particularly the route that curls down to Klosters.
APRÈS-SKI
Davos is not particularly renowned as a party town but there are plenty
of bars and clubs nonetheless. The afternoon crowd is usually found at
the Weber, locals favour Chami and the Ex bar is worth a visit (although
you may run into someone you don’t want to...). The nightclubs are
more Eurodisco cheese than Ibiza chic and there is also a casino if you
are feeling lucky. The linked resort of Klosters is also worth a visit.
Altitude: 1,050m-3,028m Total lifts: 23 Total km slopes: 82 Snowboard
parks: 1 Transfer time: 1.5 hours
HITS • ideal for families • vertical drop of 2,000m
• pretty Alpine resort • good non-skiing activities
MISSES • limited for advanced skiers and boarders •
older lift infrastructure • poor snow cover on lower runs
Mainland Europe’s most southerly ski resort. A hundred miles from
Marbella and only 20 miles from the beautiful Moorish city of Granada,
Sierra Nevada is an Andalusian incongruity. The scenery is sublime and
on a good day the view stretches across to the Moroccan coastline. The
snow comes via a different weather system to the Alps and the terrain
is mainly geared to intermediate skiers, so fresh powder is not skied
out as quickly as at better known resorts. Being Spain, lunch is the most
important part of the ski-day and even in January you should be eating
in the sun. The resort just announced that it is bidding to host the 2010
Winter Olympics.
APRÈS-SKI The atmosphere of the town is essentially chilled
out and laidback, though weekends are more boisterous and carnival times
are celebrated in true Spanish style. Best bets for post-skiing beers
are the Crescendo bar, Sticky Fingers, Soho and Mango. There are also
a dozen nightclubs including the Sala Muley in the Sol Meria Sierra Nevada
Hotel. Altitude: 2,102m-3,398m Total lifts: 20 Total km slopes: 65 Snowboard
parks: 1 Transfer time: 2 hours
HITS • stunning and dramatic views • great mountain
restaurants • good off-piste (when available) • ski under
the Mediterranean sun
MISSES • dubious snow record • exposed to high winds
• unattractive resort centre
Germany’s most famous ski resort sits at the foot of the Zugspitze
glacier, the highest mountain in the country. The old Zugspitzebahn cog
railway is a very quaint way to reach the summit but takes nearly an hour.
After the initial experience you are best advised to use the nearby cable
car. From the panoramic restaurant on its peak you can see into Switzerland,
Liechtenstein, Italy and Austria. The mountain descends into Austria and
you can actually ski over the border on the charmingly named “Happy
Ski Card”, which spreads across a dozen ski resorts. Some of them
require a bus connection, but even these are worth it as you will pass
the famous fairytale castle of the flamboyant and eccentric King Ludwig.
The skiing generally favours beginners and intermediates, although there
is some good advanced terrain in the Esterbergllift area.
APRÈS-SKI
Beer, beer and lots more beer feature prominently at the end of your skiing
day in Garmisch and your steins will be swilled down to a soundtrack of
tub-thumping, foot-stamping German beer drinking songs. While this may
sound somewhat daunting, it is strangely addictive and before too long
you will be singing along with the best of them. If you fancy something
slightly less alcoholic, try the public swimming complex with its wave
machine, waterslides and diving pool. Altitude 720m-2,964m Total lifts:
25 Total km slopes: 60 Snowboard parks: 1 Transfer time: 1 hour
HITS • good for beginners • lots of non-skiing activities
• traditional Alpine resort • great views
MISSES • limited expert terrain • antiquated lift construction
• weekends can get busy
The high altitude resort of Les Deux Alpes has one of the best snow records
in France. The actual pisted terrain is quite a long and narrow stretch
up to the glacier, meaning there are not as many pistes as you would expect
from such a large expanse of mountain. The intermediate’s loss is
the advanced skier’s gain, however, as there is plenty of off-piste
to be devoured by powder-hungry skiers and boarders. Intermediates can
take advantage of the skiing in nearby Alpe d’huez or Serre Chevalier
if they have exhausted the slopes in the resort. Beginners are spoilt
for choice with sunny nursery slopes beside the village and on the glacier.
APRÈS-SKI
Val d’Isère apart, Les Deux Alpes is one of the liveliest
resorts in France and, like Val, has many British-run bars. Chief among
them is the Rodeo, complete with mechanical Bucking Bronco (which probably
makes the evenings more dangerous than the days). Other recommended places
of ill repute include Mike’s and the Baron. Eating out offers lots
of choice; gourmets are advised to try the Bel Auberge. Altitude: 1,300m-3,570m
Total lifts: 58 Total km slopes: 200 Snowboard parks: 2 Transfer time:
3.5 hours
HITS • modern lift infrastructure • excellent snow
record and off-piste • lively nightlife
MISSES • not great for piste-hungry intermediates •
best runs can be overcrowded • little tree-lined skiing
Built by a British property company in the 1960s, Isola is the most southerly
ski area in France. The Mediterranean Sea forms the horizon and the journey
up through the national park to the resort from Nice affords dramatic
views. The ski area is limited, but its key strength is the large expanse
of sun-kissed nursery slopes, which are ideal for beginners and families
with young children. Further afield the skiing is picturesque and largely
tree-lined and there are several different intermediate circuits which
are also accessible to strong beginners. Advanced skiers and boarders
will find it a bit limiting, although in fresh snow there is a reasonable
amount of off-piste and not many people to ski it. You can also spend
a day in the nearby resorts of Auron or Valberg.
APRÈS-SKI
Being more of a family resort the nightlife is more slippers and pipe
than lipstick and lace. There are a dozen bars and two clubs, the most
popular being La Cuba Loca. The other great attraction is that you can
ski in the morning and then descend on Nice for a sunlit lunch by the
port. Altitude: 2,000m-2,610m Total lifts: 24 Total km slopes: 120 Snowboard
parks: 1 Transfer time: 1.5 hours
HITS • excellent nursery slopes • mainly tree-lined
skiing • uncrowded slopes • good snow record
MISSES • limited advanced terrain • little nightlife
• unattractive purpose-built resort centre
Located in the western Pyrenees, La Molina has a very different character
from traditional Alpine resorts. The feel of the resort is very Spanish,
and, despite not being one of the biggest in Spain, it is the oldest in
the country. Recent years have seen a great deal of investment in the
resort, with particular focus on the artificial snowmaking facilities
which are essential as the snow is often exposed to hot sunshine for long
periods of the season. While this is great for the tan, it is not so good
for the snow. However most of the runs can now be kept open throughout
the season. Most of the skiing is in the trees and during the week the
resort is very quiet. Best for beginners and early intermediates.
APRÈS-SKI
Despite being a family-focused resort, the nightlife does get relatively
lively at weekends when young skiers and boarders from across Catalonia
come to town. There remains a nice balance, however, and the pace of life
is much more laidback than at comparable resorts in nearby Andorra. The
food is typically Spanish and reasonably priced. Altitude: 1,700m-2,445m
Total lifts: 15 Total km slopes: 44 Snowboard parks: 1 Transfer time:
2 hours
HITS • good snowmaking facilities • inexpensive resort
• ideal for young families • duty-free shopping in nearby
Andorra
MISSES • poor snow record • limited advanced terrain
• busy at weekends
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